Near Mount Wilson North Slopes

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Mount Wilson North Slopes

2.7 (3 Ratings)
This route demands technical climbing on sustained Class 4 terrain, not just a strenuous hike: the final summit ridge requires exposed scrambling with no easy walk-around, and some parties carry a rope for the crux move given the rockfall-prone rock. A long, scenic approach through Navajo Basin — one of the San Juans' most striking alpine cirques — leads to a tedious, route-finding-heavy traverse and a narrow summit block guarding one of Colorado's ten hardest fourteeners. This is not the current standard route up Mount Wilson; the Southwest Slopes route is now considered easier and more stable.
15
mi
Distance
5,460
ft
Gain
extreme
Difficulty
Regional Classic
A must do route for the area handpicked by local experts.
LakeRiver/CreekViewsWildflowersWildlife
Access Issues
No permit is required, but the route enters the Lizard Head Wilderness: dogs must be leashed, group size is limited, and campfires are prohibited. Navajo Lake Basin allows only designated dispersed campsites as of 2026.

Route Details

Flatter
Steeper
15.05mi
Distance
5,460ft
Elevation Gain
5,460ft
Elevation Loss
60%
Max Grade
14,219ft
High Point
9,332ft
Low Point
Path Type
There and Back
Description
This route requires technical climbing to reach the summit, not just strenuous hiking. The final summit ridge involves sustained Class 3 and Class 4 scrambling with high exposure and high rockfall potential; the crux is an exposed Class 4 move that some climbers find uncomfortable, and some parties carry a rope for it given the loose rock in this area. See Climb Mode and Mountain Project for detailed technical beta before attempting this route. Note also that this was once considered Mount Wilson's standard route, but the Southwest Slopes route is now designated standard as easier and more stable. The route begins and ends at the Navajo Lake trailhead at 9,350 feet and reaches the summit of Mount Wilson for a round trip of about 16 miles. From the trailhead, hike 0.25 miles to a junction and stay right, passing the Groundhog Trail. Continue through meadows and forest, crossing a bridge over the West Dolores River near 9,500 feet, and climb to a large meadow at 9,800 feet. Continue through alternating forest and meadow to 10,700 feet, then switchback up to 11,000 feet and traverse east to a junction with the Woods Lake Trail at about 4 miles; stay right. Reach Navajo Lake at 11,150 feet, roughly 4.5 miles in, where designated dispersed campsites are available. Pass the lake on its left side, continue through brush, and traverse the basin's north side. Near 11,900 feet the terrain flattens; continue to the upper end of Navajo Basin near 12,200 feet, about 6.5 miles in, where Mount Wilson's turn-off becomes visible. Leave the trail, cross a stream, and climb south onto the shoulder leading to Mount Wilson's northeast ridge, following intermittent trail segments and cairns. At 13,100 feet, reach the base of a green, lichen-covered rock wall — the first crux. Climb its center on cairned Class 3 moves to easier terrain above 13,400 feet. Do not climb directly to the ridge here. Instead, continue up to 13,600 feet to bypass loose terrain, then begin an ascending traverse southwest across rock ribs and gullies — the route's tedious, route-finding-heavy second crux. Snow in the gullies can aid footing; climbing too high makes crossing the ribs harder, involving Class 3+ moves on loose boulders, so study the route carefully and stay alert for cairns marking the correct line. Near 14,100 feet, climb a final gully to a notch in the northeast ridge. From the notch, scramble Class 3 and Class 4 terrain along the narrow summit ridge to a smaller notch, then turn left. Just before the summit, reach the true crux: a set of blocks blocking easy passage. Pass to the left for the easiest line; the right side requires an exposed Class 4 move some climbers find uncomfortable. Past the crux, a short scramble leads to the summit. Retrace the same route on the descent, taking particular care on the ridge crux, the rib-and-gully traverse, and the green wall, all of which are more consequential to downclimb than ascend.

Route Conditions

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