Crestone Needle South Face

This route requires roped, technical climbing to reach the summit and is not a standard hike or scramble. Above Broken Hand Pass, at roughly 13,300', the route crosses Class 4 terrain, including a 15- to 20-foot wall that many parties protect with ropes. Hikers without technical climbing experience and gear should consult Climb Mode and Mountain Project for detailed route and protection information before attempting this line. The route begins at the South Colony Lakes trailhead (9,900') and ends at the 14,197' summit of Crestone Needle. From the trailhead, follow the South Colony Lakes Route 4.3 miles to the upper basin, bearing left at the signed junction for Crestone Needle: Standard Route, to start up Broken Hand Pass. Climb 0.8 miles of steep talus, angling left above the upper lakes — helmets recommended, as terrain turns loose and scrambly. Crux: At 12,700', commit to a Class 3 move left of the trail; staying right puts you in an exposed, rockfall-prone talus field. Snow can linger into July, so carry an ice axe. A short Class 2+ scramble then reaches Broken Hand Pass at 12,900'; turn right toward Crestone Needle. Drop into the east gully at 13,300' and climb about 300 vertical feet until it cliffs out. Crux: Climb the Class 4 wall to the left onto the rib dividing the east and west gullies. Mark this spot for the descent, since staying too low in the west gully cliffs out. From the rib, climb the west gully roughly 600 vertical feet, angling left near the top, to the summit. Retrace the route to descend, downclimbing the crux with care.