Mount Shasta via Hotlum-Bolam Ridge

This route starts and ends at the Northgate Trailhead after climbing to the summit of Mount Shasta by the Hotlum-Bolum Ridge. Hotlum/Bolam Ridge is a glacier mountaineering route requiring ice axe, crampons, and rope for the summit push — not a hike or scramble. From the trailhead, hike southwest along the trail through subalpine forest. Shortly after, the trail will wind to the southeast, until turning back to a southwesterly direction around 0.7 miles. At 1.6 miles, follow the trail to the right to begin climbing to the north. At 1.9 miles, follow the trail sharply left to continue back to the south. From this point, navigate cross-country south-southwest, aiming for the moraine on the east side of Bolam Creek. Climb 3,000 vertical feet over loose scree and rocky terrain to reach the prominent high camp area around 4.1 miles, at 10,000', which features established gravel tent sites. From high camp, ascend south up the snow and ice slopes between the Bolam Glacier to the west and the Hotlum Glacier to the east. Keep to the ridge crest to avoid crevasses beginning around 11,700'. Traverse to the west to reach the base of a steep gully around 5.2 miles, known as "The Ramp." Crux 1: Directly below The Ramp, a bergschrund must be skirted on the right; late season, this feature can gap open and complicate both ascent and descent. See Climb Mode and Mountain Project for additional detail on technical demands. Climb 1000' in approximately 0.3 miles up The Ramp to reach a level area called "The Step." From The Step, climb towards two rock spires around 5.7 miles, called "The Rabbit Ears." Navigate to climber's right, crossing the Bolam Gully. Crux 2: The technical crux is the ascending traverse from the snow apron below the Rabbit Ears, crossing climber's right around a rock buttress over the Bolam Gulley to the Shark's Tooth at approximately 13,500'. Exposure on this traverse is significant, and late-season icy conditions can make it the most demanding section on the route. Cross the gentle upper plateau toward the active geothermal area. Climb the final 500 vertical feet up the steep scree of the summit pinnacle to reach the summit at 14,179'. Carefully retrace your steps down the Hotlum-Bolam Ridge back to the Northgate Trailhead. Give the bergschrund extra care on descent, when it gaps wider and is harder to read.