Little Bear Peak West Ridge and Hourglass

This is a mountaineering route, not a hike or scramble. Reaching the summit requires exposed Class 4 climbing through the Hourglass, a narrow, water-polished couloir about 13,300 feet up the route. Fixed ropes are sometimes anchored there, but their condition is unpredictable; many parties carry their own rope, especially for the descent rappel. Rockfall risk is extreme with any party above you. See Climb Mode and Mountain Project for full technical detail before attempting this route. The route starts and ends at the Lake Como trailhead (8,000') and climbs the same corridor to the 14,041' summit. Hike the rough Lake Como/Blanca Peak 4WD road to Lake Como at 11,750', follow the road around the lake and back into forest, then near 11,900' leave the road at a cairn on the right, cross a stream, and follow cairns onto talus at the base of a gully on Little Bear's west ridge. Climb the loose gully, staying right for easier footing, to a notch at 12,600'. Turn left (east) out of the notch and traverse below the ridge crest on cairns and trail segments. About 0.25 miles along, bypass a 12,960-foot ridge point, drop to a notch, and continue east with cliffs above on your left to 13,300' at the base of the Hourglass. Crux: Climb the initial slabs to orange rock veins just below the Hourglass's narrow choke, watching constantly for rockfall from above. Above the choke, reach an anchor ledge and choose LEFT or RIGHT: LEFT is more stable with less loose rock but more complex; RIGHT starts steep, eases, then holds more loose rock overhead — take RIGHT if the face is snow-covered, LEFT if dry. LEFT climbs a short 10-foot wall, then angles toward the summit; RIGHT climbs roughly 100 feet of steep slab beneath hanging loose rock before the final 300 feet ease to the summit. Descend the same way, reversing through the Hourglass with the same rockfall caution.