North Palisade (LeConte Route via Bishop Pass)

Reaching the summit of North Palisade by this route requires ropes and technical climbing — this is a mountaineering objective, not a hike or scramble. The technical section is a pair of chockstones in the upper Southwest Chute, encountered a few hundred vertical feet below the summit. Getting above the first chockstone is a Class 4 move; the second is harder, sometimes mixed with ice, and parties typically rope up for this section and rappel it on the descent. This is not optional gear for comfort — bring a rope, a light rack, and be comfortable belaying and rappelling on exposed rock. See Climb Mode and Mountain Project for pitch-by-pitch detail before attempting this route. The route starts at South Lake, southwest of Bishop, and ends at the summit of North Palisade, about 9.5 miles and roughly 6,000 vertical feet away. From the trailhead, follow the Bishop Pass Trail south for about 6 miles to Bishop Pass at 11,972 feet, the last maintained-trail junction. Just beyond the pass, leave the trail and turn right (southwest), descending cross-country into Dusy Basin — this section requires route-finding, with granite slabs and benches rather than continuous tread. From Dusy Basin, climb southeast up granite slabs and shelves to Knapsack Pass, at 11,680 feet on the saddle south of Columbine Peak — a straightforward Class 1-2 crossing in dry conditions. When the pass holds snow, most parties instead use Thunderbolt Pass, a higher, slightly harder Class 2 crossing a short distance northeast. From either pass, descend into Palisade Basin, near Barrett Lakes, then work north across talus toward North Palisade's south face and the broad Southwest Chute — the middle and widest of three gullies between four light-colored buttresses. Climb the chute until it narrows into a system of icy cracks leading to a narrow catwalk ledge. Crux: After the catwalk ledge, you hit the first chockstone. Bypass it on the left side — it's a Class 4 move, and the holds are better on that side than trying to muscle straight up the middle. Above it, the gully continues through a section of mixed ice and rock that's often wet or icy even in late season, so test holds before committing weight. The second chockstone is the harder of the two. The standard line bypasses it on the right, which runs Class 4 into low Class 5 (around 5.3) depending on conditions — this is the point most parties actually rope up rather than solo through, since a fall here would be serious. Descend by reversing the route, rappelling the chockstone section on the way down.