Plan with
Confidence
Numerous climbers have died attempting this route. Do not take it lightly. The Capitol Creek Trailhead is generally closed for the winter quite a ways down the road. Leave the dog at home.If staying overnight at Capitol Lake, advance reservation overnight permits are required and must be purchased in advance at <a href="http://recreation.gov/">recreation.gov</a>. Approved bear food storage containers are also required and strictly enforced.
Path Type
There and Back
From the Capitol Creek Trailhead, follow either Capitol Ditch Trail (#1963) or Capitol Creek Trail (#1961) to campsites just before Capitol Lake. Most will elect to camp here the night before their summit bid. If doing this hike as a day trip ignore this area and get moving - you don't have time to sightsee! If staying overnight, advance reservation overnight permits are required and must be purchased in advance at recreation.gov. Continue up Capitol Peak Trail to the K2-Daly saddle, and say goodbye to clear trail. Talus hop to K2, scramble to the Knife Edge, traverse, and then work your way along Capitol Peak's ridge to the summit. Much greater description can be found in the Capitol Peak Trail link. Due to summer storms, it would be wise to be on top by 9 am, which means a 4-5 AM start from the lake or a 2-3 am start from the trailhead. If the weather looks bad before you cross the knife edge, just turn around. The mountain isn't going anywhere, and the rock here gets to be very slick!
A challenging enough climb in summer, Capitol Peak is regarded as a true mountaineering conquest in the winter. Dozens have made a winter ascent, but technical gear, chops, and cojones are all a necessity for those seeking the Elk Range monarch during the colder months.
No Condition Reports
Capitol Lake, Avalanche Creek, Hell's Roaring Pass Loop
Capitol Lake, Avalanche Creek, Hell's Roaring Pass Loop
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