Grand Teton - Upper Exum

The Grand Teton - Upper Exum begins at Lupine Meadows Trailhead (~6,700') in Grand Teton National Park and ends at the Grand Teton summit (~13,775'). From the trailhead, follow the Garnet Canyon Trail south. At The Meadows (~9,600', approximately 5 miles), bear right onto the moraine and continue west to the Lower Saddle (~11,600'). From the Lower Saddle, follow the Owen Spalding route left past the Needle, then up the right gully. Where the route diverges from the Owen Spalding, traverse right across a broad couloir — the couloir drops straight toward the valley floor and cliffs out; do not descend it, in any direction. Continue right to Wall Street, a wide ledge leading to the ridge crest. At the end of Wall Street, the ledge narrows to highly exposed, committing terrain — rope up here. The Golden Stair pitch ascends steep, knobby granite directly up the ridge with limited protection; it is exposed and committing. Beyond this point, escape from the route in deteriorating weather is extremely difficult. The Wind Tunnel gully leads upward for several pitches before the Friction Pitch returns the route to the ridge crest. The V Pitch — a SW-facing dihedral — is the most exposed section of the climb and offers excellent protection. Above the Petzoldt Lieback Pitch, the ridge broadens to the summit plateau. Descend via the Owen Spalding: from the summit, head to the Upper Saddle staying west — do not enter the broad couloir immediately west of the Exum Ridge, which cliffs out. Two rappels (Sergeant's Chimney ~70', then ~120') return to the Lower Saddle. Retrace the approach to Lupine Meadows.

The Upper Exum Ridge was first climbed on July 15, 1931, by Glenn Exum. He completed the historic first ascent solo, without a rope, and wearing a pair of football cleats that were two sizes too large. Later that same year, Robert Underhill and Kenneth Henderson climbed the lower section of the ridge to complete the Full Exum Ridge. The route is widely considered one of the premier alpine climbs in the United States and is featured in the book *Fifty Classic Climbs of North America*.