Grand Teton - Upper Exum

The route begins at Lupine Meadows Trailhead and follows the Garnet Canyon Trail southwest, switchbacking through open slopes and entering the canyon before gaining significant elevation to the Lower Saddle — the broad, windswept notch between the Grand and Middle Teton. From the Lower Saddle, the Upper Exum Ridge begins with the Wall Street traverse, a narrow exposed ledge wrapping around the south face. From Wall Street, climb left and up through the Golden Staircase, a series of large featured steps on solid granite. The ridge continues past the Wind Tunnel, a narrow chimney, before opening onto the upper ridge. The Friction Pitch and the V-Crack lead to the final headwall. Gain the summit ridge and follow it north to the highest point at 13,763'. Retrace your steps to the Lower Saddle and descend Garnet Canyon to the trailhead. The descent from the Lower Saddle is loose in places — poles are useful on the talus below the canyon. The Upper Exum requires a rope, harness, and climbing protection; parties without technical climbing experience should hire a guide.