Mount Hood Summit via South Side/Old Chute

This is a mountaineering route, not a hike or scramble. Above the Hogsback ridge, the route climbs 40- to 50-degree snow and ice through the Old Chute to cross the bergschrund — splitting the crater headwall — before reaching the rim. Crampons, an ice axe, and solid self-arrest technique are mandatory here; many parties rope up, though rope-team falls have caused accidents here too. Check Climb Mode and Mountain Project for current conditions before attempting this climb. The route starts and ends at Timberline Lodge (5,960'), reaching the summit at Mount Hood's high point (11,249'). From Timberline Lodge, follow the climbers' track up the west side of the Palmer snowfield to the top of the Palmer chairlift, about 2.5 miles in (8,540'). Continue past Illumination Saddle to Devils Kitchen beside Crater Rock, then follow the boot track up Hogsback ridge to about 10,700'. Crux: At the top of the Hogsback, assess the bergschrund and the Old Chute above it — the preferred line shifts through the season and should be checked against current conditions before committing. Climb the chute's 40- to 50-degree snow and ice to cross the bergschrund and reach the crater rim; this is the technical core of the route, and solid self-arrest skill is non-negotiable here regardless of whether you rope up. Continue a short distance along the rim to the true summit (11,249'). Descend the same route. The chute and snowfield below it grow crowded and rockfall-prone by midday, so an early start and a firm turnaround time are standard practice. A Climbing Permit and wilderness permit are both required above 9,500 feet; pick these up at the Wy'east Day Lodge before starting.